Some machines test the motor rotation on power up and if this is abnormal they simply abort the program. Check out the carbon brushes in the motor. Theyre graphite blocks which transfer mains power to the copper segments of the motor - located at the other end of the motor from the drive pulley. Theyre probably worn down. They're quite cheap parts and easy to replace - the holders are plastic or bakelite and are generally held in with screws or plastic clips. Also, look at the copper segments they run on to check for burning or pitting. If the segments are burnt or damaged you need a replacement motor or a replacement armature (motor part) if you can source one. Occasionally may be a fault in the motor drive circuit board - in which case replacement of board only real option. Other possible causes of problems: Faulty pressure switch - -the system that determines correct water level in the drum. Its a round item about 3 inches across with several wires connected, it sits under the top cover. Its an air operated switch which tells the machine water has reached the correct level. Disconnect the thin rubber pipe from the switch and blow down through it to clear any blockage. Switch itself may be faulty but its more likely the pipe is blocked.
Also check the filter - generally located behind a panel at the foot of the machine.Some are obvious like little square hatches and some are hidden behind the trim panel at the foot of the machine. Once panel is removed the filter should be visible. Its generally a circular plastic fitting which unscrews in an anticlockwise direction. Some hotpoint, indesit and ariston filters are located in the big black sump hose (the one that leaves the bottom of the outer drum and connects to the pump). Remove the back cover, locate hose, remove the tensioner clip by squeezing the tabs together, remove the hose, take out filter and clean.
Repair and service your own washing machine. Go to www.2ndwave.co.uk/manual.html