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should my punto be doing 40 revs per minute at 70 pmh
jane February 2012 |
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heating workin one min and went off and wont work now?any help
les December 2010 |
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i have mayo on the bottom of my oil cap ,but none in my dipstick ,car is over heating and blowers are blowing cold ,is my head gasket gone ? any help would be grateful
wayne November 2010 |
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how does the air keep getting into my cooling system only after a couple of weeks on my 52 plate fiat punto ?
wana November 2009 |
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Following answers copied and pasted from other forums:
Answer 1
Right...if the heater fan is on but the air is still cold the 2 most common problems are a)kackered thermostat or b) air lock in the cooling system.
The easier to check and remedy is the air lock.
The Mk2 engine is basically the same as the mk1 but with some updated electronics...so there should be 2 bleed screws.
One is located on the rad itself...top of the rad left hand side as you look at the engine bay. It's just a plastic screw going into the radiator. There is a second on most fiats on the right hand side of the engine one a pipe going into the bulkhead. Loosen both of these and hopefully coolant/water mix will come out. If not we've found the problem and it's just a case of running the engine with the screws loosened until a steady flow of liquid comes out. Make sure it;s a flow and not just a little squirt and you should be alright to tighten the screws back up.
Word of warning...do this when the engine and coolant are cold....or you'll be regretting it.
Second is the thermostat. These can sometime get stuck either open or closed...or sometimes just get a bit gunked up when opening or closing which may explain why the overheating light has been on then switched off. The Thermostat costs about £5 to replace. You can test them by putting then in a pot of boiling water and seeing if they open but it's generally easier just to replace it if you suspect it's dodgy.
The thermostat in Punto's are built into their housing so the whole thing gets replaced at once. It's located on the left end of the cylinder head. It'll also need a new gasket when it goes back on. You should be able to find it by following the coolant pipes.
Might also be worth checking your passenger footwell for wet patches...this would indicate a damaged heater matrix which could cause the cold blowers.
Also could be a blown HG...easiest checks for this are to take off the oil filler cap and check underneath for a substance like mayo....also check the oil dipstick for this. If the coolant also has a metallic sort of sheen on it it's an indicator of a blown HG.
If you have these signs then it'd be advisable to drive the car as little as possible to minimise the risk of further damage and to get the car to a garage so they can make proper checks on the HG and give you a price on repair.
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Answer 2
Q: I have a problem with the heating system. It's blowing cold air and the temperature gauge seems to go up at the same time. The car it's not overheating as when here's no water in the radiator but it goes up.
A:
Try this:
Let everything cool down first, liquid, radiator etc. Find two bolt-taps: one on the left upper part of the radiator, and the second one behinf the engine, in the pipe passingto the passanger compartment.
Dont do with them anyhing for the moment.
Open the cooolant reservoir cap, and check that there is enough of liquid to cover the pipe which returns the liquid from the radiator (its inside the reservoir, take a look). The best is to to top it almost to to the max level. Now squeeze the upper black pipe going from the thermostat (engine) to the coolant reservoir (you have two of them, one is and one is down, both connected to the coolant reservoir). You should be hearing air coming outthrough the water, from little pipe in the coolant reservoir the Keep squeezing until you dont her air coming out anymore.
Second option is to unscrew the bolt-tap on the left part of the radiator, fil up the coolant reservoir to the max level, and blow into the coolant reservoir until you see water starts coming out from the bolt.
It is very importnat when you do this to make sure that litle pipe in the reservoir (you can see this pipe, its onthe left few inches below the resevoir cap) is submerged. Otherwise, with all these sqeueezing the the pipes you will suck in more air!
Do the same sqqueezing for the bottom pipe.
Turn the engine on, let it run to warm, set the heating to hot, unscrew a little bit with the screwdriver bolt on the back of the engine, just a liitlle bit because there will be a hot antifreeze blurping out into you if you unscrew it fully Let the antifreeze blurping out for a minute or so, and screw it againg. If yoy think its necessery, you can do this with the bolt on the radiator, always cautious of hot liquid coming onto you.
Keep your eye on the temp gauge of the engine, if goes to high shut the engine down.
That should be it.
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Answer 3
check the coolant leval in the radiator this could be low
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Answer 4
Careful cos this could be the start of head gasket failure. sounds like you need to add water.
The reason you get hot air at high revs is that the water pump is operating fast enough to lift water from the bottom of the engine into the heater matrix at the top of the engine - there should be water in the whole of the engins with no air at the top (which is what you've got.)
To remedy this bad air situation, carefully remove (when engine cold) the top bleed screw at the back of the engine compartment (small black screw on hose which disappears into the cabin under the bonnet). this allows air to leave the system as you fill the radiator (otherwise air remains trapped causing localised overheating in engine).
Have someone constantly pour water into your expansion tank until it comes out of the hole you exposed with the bleed screw. tell them to keep pouring as you start the engine. with the engine running and the water pouring in the expansion tank and out of the bleed screw, you should remove any air in the system.
Get ready with the screw you removed, stop pouring water in the ex' tank, wait 5 seconds (in this time the level of water in the ex'tank will go down, BUT the water will keep coming out of the bleed hole. The water coming out will be getting warm (careful), put the screw back in the hole with the engine running -DONT DROP IT OR YOU MIGHT LOSE IT! make sure its quite tight, with the engine STILL running, place the expansion tank cap back on and you're good to go
HTH
/JOHAN January 2009 |
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cant get heat from heaters all blowing fine but no heat
Rod January 2009 |
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