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Glowworm Compact 80e. No flame, continuous pump!?I'm having intermittent problems with my compact 80e (getting worse)!
There's no ignition, fan or gas (so no heating or water), but the pump runs continuously, and the error light doesn't come on. The boiler appears to be making all the correct sounds, but just won't light. Sometimes it will reset if i turn it off at the mains for 15 minutes or so, but today I cannot get it going at all!
My wife called a guy out yesterday, but it worked fine whilst he was here, so I couldn't get it repaired.
I'm hoping someone has come across this before, and can stear me in the right direction.
Thanks.
Andy January 2007
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Click here if you can answer this question |
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I have just had this exact problem after draining down the system to remove and refit some radiators.
Problem- On application of power the pump would run continually, and a demand for heat would result run the fan, not generate a spark, then fail to lockout. On removal of power there would be a burbling noise from the pipes.
Cause- Large pocket of air trapped in the top of the boiler system meaning that the pump cannot create a full pressure circuit and get the water moving. Because it cannot move the water it does not produce the pressure OK signal the unit is waiting on to prove the pump is good. This then prevents the ignitor starting and overheating the boiler.
Air pocket was let in when the system was drained and has not been removed by the Automatic Air Vent on top of the pump assembly.
Solution- Place a bowl under the pump motor, in front of the Red Pressure Safety Release valve. Add a bit of electrical tape to the front lower edge of the pump motor body to allow water to drip off the front not run along the underside.
DO NOT GET WATER ON THE ELECTRICAL BITS.
Using a coin, open the spindle valve cap on the pump motor by one turn. This will let some air out with some water dribbling down the pump motor and into the bowl.
AGAIN: DO NOT GET THE ELECTRICKERY WET: BAD FOR IT AND WORSE FOR YOU
Turn the unit on and more bubbles should escape. Turn the unit off and on when the bubbles stop until no more come out when it gets powered. Turn the timer to create a Central Heating demand and listen for more bubbles. Repeat if more bubbles are heard. The system should go quiet when all the air is out. Remember to keep the pressure correct with the fill loop as it falls.
This worked for me, and saved trying to replace the air release valve.
Please only undertake this if you are happy with both the plumbing and mains electrical side of things. If you drip water in the wrong place there is real risk of real death!
Good luck and hope this helps someone else avoid some cold showers. (did really focus the problem solving brain though)
Jaz October 2016 |
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i'm having the same problem ... no power to the fan but if i turn it of after 15 -20 mins turn it back on it works fine for 10 mins or so then same problem?
Lee December 2008 |
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I've got a burnt tr100 and same probs as above apart from the fact that only the manula timer is ticking on mine when its powered up, nothing else. Have you had to have a new pcb to rectify the fault or did you manage to repair it?
Paul. June 2007 |
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having exactly the same prob with 100e compact but also noticed a faint glow on water demand light.
steve February 2007 |
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could job saved you a few bob.
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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Just a follow-up for anyone who may be following this thread.
I managed to repair the PCB myself. There were several dry solder joints, but the culprit was a broken solder joint on relay RY101 (centre of board). After applying fresh solder to the leg, the fault hasn't come back (so far!!!!).
Seems to be a common fault, judging by some comments on the internet.
Andy January 2007 |
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I'm pretty sure there's a cold-soldered joint somewhere, as I can almost get the boiler to turn off at will by pressing on it. I'll rip it out and resolder some joints....might just work!
Andy January 2007 |
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ya im not sure what tr100 is and my pic don't go that much into detail.
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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I don't know whether you are still following this thread, but I've just found out that it is TR100 (the big blue thing). The boiler started working again, so I tapped it, heard a 'fizzing' noise, then the boiler stopped working!
Andy January 2007 |
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Yeah, thanks.
Unfortunately I've still got to pay someone to adjust the gas after it's installed
Andy January 2007 |
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you can fit it yourself in 10mins good luck.
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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Funny you should say that !!!!
Andy January 2007 |
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was that with a cuppa as well
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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Thanks very much for your help.
That's me £82.42 + Vat out of pocket, I wouldn't mind so much if my wife hadn't already paid a guy £56 just to read my manual.
Thanks Again!
Andy January 2007 |
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9/10 times replaceing board will solve it its just wear and tear of the board componants
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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It's not TR100 that's burnt, it's an area just to the right as you look at the board. There's a brown patch behind 2 diodes (D121 and Z100) and 2 resistors. These are soldered to the board. Trouble is, even if I can get these replaced, it's a good chance that something else is causing them to blow.
You're right about the arching, as I can see 1 relay sparking when I turn on the mains power.
Andy January 2007 |
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as you mention the burnt patch shounds about right its arcing so somtimes works, and then don't. i'll see if i can see what is a tr100. they are a straight change being as its burnt somethings wrong.
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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Yeah, looks that way, as the eror light doesn't come on as it should. All of the relays on the board click in OK, but i have noticed a burnt patch on the board next to TR100 (If that means anything), it's an area with 2 resistors and 2 diodes??
Can these boards be tested, or is it straight replacement?
Is there anything else I can check before condemning the PCB?
Andy January 2007 |
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its looking like a faulty control board ,pcb.
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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No, checked all connections
Andy January 2007 |
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the fan has to come in first before you get ignition and there is not 230v to fan. no loose connections on pcb ?
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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The pump is running constantly, but there's no ignition (no spark).
Andy January 2007 |
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no power is pump still running and boiler trying to fire up
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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Theres no power to fan!
Andy January 2007 |
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The boiler is working at the moment, as soon as it stops, I'll test
Andy January 2007 |
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is there 230v to fan
hi-spec plumbing January 2007 |
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